Gentleman, a timeless guide of style
Bernhard Roetzel wrote a reference book, a very well researched one, covering men’s fashion issues: from choosing a good tailor to proper shoe care, the right belt, how to knot a necktie and fold a handkerchief. He also brings examples of classic male celebrities that influenced fashion and we can follow. Reading this book will help you select the perfect outfit, harmonize the accessories and shop with the connoisseur’s eye.
This is a book for both men and women, I read its stories with so much pleasure.. it takes the readers at the origins of cotton, silk, talking in detail about fabrics, how they are processed, patterns, the right cut. You will find out the difference between the English stiffness and the refined Italian in wearing a suit, how to skillfully coordinate the shoes with the suit and that the cuff links make a very big contribution to the overall look, even they are small.
Roetzel gives some tips on how to wear the formal shoes, the loafers, the moccasins, the Suede shoes and getting the right combination with socks.
The book might help you set up a good idea of what is good style and some practical information, such as:
1. The original meaning of the bespoke service: „A garment made by an individual, for an individual, by an individual“, meaning that the shop will create something special for you according to you wishes and your physical requirements, made- to-measure (the garment will be adjusted to your own size) or stock singles (meaning that single orders are produced in a standard size. You can pick the style and the material from an existing range).
2. Where to look when buying a shirt.
3. A good tie is usually cut in 3 parts. If you are in London, you might wanna check the John Comfort, Tobias Tailors of the Savile Row, Drake’s, Charles Hill, Holiday & Brown, in Paris the Charvet, with a boutique in the Place Vendome or Hermes in St Honore.
3. The differences between a ready-made-bow and a real bow tie.
4. Not only the suit’s last button is undone, but in a good suit even the button of the sleeve undone is making a statement: “Look, I can undo the buttons on my sleeve and only the sleeve buttons of really good suits can be undone.” This is a feature you will see on the jackets made especially in Italy.
5. The vent in the suits: there is the classic English suit that has 2 side vents. This is the most expensive type of vent to manufacture because they’ve got to put two slits on the side. They’ve got to use a little bit of extra fabric, and these small things, the extra time, the extra fabric make it more expensive. The three- buttoned jacket traditionally has a back vent. The single vent is also known as the American, then it was made popular by Brooks Brothers in their sack suits. Although most men can fit into it, it works better for the ones with a booty. There is the no-vent jacket, known as an Italian style, and this usually comes from a jacket that’s very well-fitted, one that is made to fit a slimmer, more petite physique. The last one is the trickiest as many of low quality jackets do not have a vent.
6. Shoes are one of the most important items you should invest in.
7. There is a one golden rule about the male leg which is more important than any rules regarding colors and fabrics: always wear knee-length socks rather than ankle-length, so that your bare leg is never visible either when standing or when sitting.
Shaving at home
Folding the handkerchief
The right belt
There are some nice stories presented in the book, with an inside view of Brooks Brothers, Hermes, Brioni, John Lobb, how they evolved in time and how they keep they great quality.
This book has a lot of information that helps the readers make wardrobe better choices. It is also the perfect gift for a friend, as a gentleman will never go out of date.